Kristiane Sherry
All hail the arrival of Aberargie
Lowland single malt distillery Aberargie was founded by a whisky dynasty – and now its Inaugural Release is here. Kristiane Westray travelled to the maker to celebrate its first pour, and discovers that sometimes quiet innovation is the most profound.
There’s something magical about visiting a distillery you’ve not been to before. That enchantment only deepens when it’s an entirely brand new whisky maker, and the reason for your visit is to be among the first in the world to taste its inaugural single malt.
That’s exactly why I found myself at Aberargie last month, bouncing along in a minibus from Edinburgh to the distillery on the outskirts of Perth. I was there with a group of fellow whisky writers, all chattering excitedly as we turned into the driveway. It was dark by the time we approached, but even in the Scottish gloom you could make out the 300 acres of barley fields that surround Aberargie, and the rolling hills that inspired its design (more on that shortly).
We weren’t the only ones excited. The Aberargie team were buzzing as well. Managing director Niel Hendriksz had travelled with us, while we met the rest of the team, including head of distilling Graeme Mackeddie, senior brand manager Lauren Doherty and junior brand manager Becca Davidson,
over Highballs in the purpose-built distillery. Clad in Aberargie green, the modern space houses a pair of pot stills, a mash tun and nine washbacks –everything a barley-to-bottle whisky producer needs. The production “sweet spot”, Hendriksz tells me, is 300,000 litres of alcohol a year. Aberargie isn’t big – but it is thoughtfully formed.
This philosophy continues in every detail, from the barley varieties that grow in the fields, to the simple, intricate packaging design. Each step has been meticulously considered. It speaks to the distillery’s heritage. Because Aberargie isn’t a flash in the pan. For over five generations, the Morrison family has been blending, bottling, distilling and
selling whisky. But after 1994, when the family sold Bowmore, Glen Garioch and Auchentoshan to Suntory, it no longer owned stills. Since then it’s been making a name as an indie bottler with brands Càrn Mòr, Old Perth and Mac-Talla – but
Aberargie is different. The team controls everything, and is creating from scratch. Starting with its very own home-grown barley. It’s a huge moment for the Morrison family – and Jamie was there to lead the celebrations.
On to the whisky itself. It’s not been rushed out the door – it’s born of patience as well as attention to detail. Predominantly drawn from casks laid down in 2018 (the distillery's first production run took place in November 2017), it offers an assured sensibility. It’s been made using 52% Golden Promise and 48% Laureate barley (there IS a difference! We enjoyed a deconstructed tasting while on-site) and aged in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry wood. In many ways, there’s nothing flashy or fancy here. No “innovative” cask maturation, no profoundly directional flavour profile. But that’s why Aberargie Inaugural works. It’s delicious. It’s beautifully balanced, intricate. It’s the full, complete picture. Being bottled at 48.2% definitely adds a boost – but what really shines though in the buttery, baking spiced, sweet pastry-driven profile is confidence. This is a whisky that quietly but powerfully makes a statement.
We all know the pitfalls of judging a book by its cover, but even Aberargie’s packaging turns heads. That signature green prevails, and the distillery’s name is set in traditional type. But then minimal and modern sets the tone. A single gold line mirrors the rolling Perthshire hills, with a small block pentagon depicting the distillery. And then the contours of the barley fields underscore the importance of its grain-to-glass approach. The bottle design is consistent, with the label carrying transparent barley and cask details. It isn’t showy but it delivers – like the whisky itself.
Aberargie’s Inaugural Release kicks off a new era not just in the Morrison family history, but in Scotch more broadly too. Provenance and process are front and centre, showcasing a fresh kind of quiet innovation. It’s impressive – grab a bottle while you can.
Kristiane Westray’s tasting notes:
Nose: Bright and fresh, the nose is brimming with ripe orchard fruits, baking spices and sweet choux pastry notes. It’s sunny and intricate with breakfast cereal, raisins, and a eucalyptus-like herbal element too. With time, subtle hints of sandalwood and gingerbread emerge.
Palate: Mouthcoating and gently warming, a buttery texture holds apple strudel, rich tea biscuit and toffee coin notes, while chocolate eclairs, profiteroles and spring-like florals leap from the glass. Fig rolls and a touch of marzipan build on the sweetness, while black pepper and a smattering of earthy notes add depth.
Finish: Medium length with dried dark fruits, oaky spices, and a return to that leafy, herbal quality.
Aberargie Inaugural Release 48.2% 70cl - 1x70cl | DP | 13831146 is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
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