Why wine casks and whisky are a match made in flavour heaven

Why wine casks and whisky are a match made in flavour heaven

The use of wine casks in whisky maturation isn’t new. But we’ve certainly seen an uptick in wine cask-influenced Scotch whiskies in recent years. This is a great thing, writes Kristiane Westray, because the two are a thoroughly compatible match. 

Kristiane Westray

You cannot make Scotch whisky without casks. Maturation in oak is an essential part of production, after you’ve processed your grains, fermented and then distilled. But these wooden vessels don’t just nurture whisky to its magical third birthday (Scotch whisky, by law, must be aged for a minimum of three years). They also impart a whole universe of flavour along the way.

To understand the importance of oak maturation – and why what a cask previously held plays such a powerful role in flavour and aroma development – we need to first take a look at how casks work. They’re just barrels, right? Yes… and no.

A brief history of casks

Wooden casks have a long history of making drinks great. The Celts and Gauls were using them way back in 3rd century BC because clay pots just weren’t cutting it anymore. Then the Romans used them to transport wine around the empire. Wood was plentiful, easy to shape, and, at least most of the time, provided a watertight solution.

And therein lies the magic. Casks are watertight, but they’re not airtight. While they safely (you’d hope) hold your wine, beer, whisky, or whatever, they ‘breathe’ with atmospheric conditions like temperature and humidity. This ‘breathing’ lets oxygen in and out of the barrel. It also draws the contents of the cask into the wooden staves. This means that even if you tip that barrel out, some of its contents will remain in the oak staves. It’s magical.

What’s even more enchanting are the interactions that happen between the liquid and the oak during this process. The liquid takes on colour, flavour and aroma compounds from the cask. The cask extracts harshness from the liquid. It’s transformative. And, in the case of whisky, it informs the very character of the spirit – even if it’s a brand-new barrel being used for the first time.

A brief history of casks

A world of flavour

Now we understand the basics of maturation, it’s easy to see why what a cask was used for before is so important to a whisky-maker now. Bourbon casks will typically impart vanilla, coconut and citrus notes – the aromas and flavours common in bourbon. Sherry casks will be about dried fruits, nuttiness and dark chocolate. Rum casks might contribute tropical fruit notes. Tequila casks a peppery, leafy element. Wine casks? There’s so much potential.

Think of your favourite wines. Perhaps a Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux. Use casks that previously held these wines in whisky-making and you’ll likely get cherry and red berry notes as a result. What about a Sauvignon Blanc white wine? Expect notes of green apple or citrus peels. Now extrapolate that out and think of the flavours distilleries could tap into using Argentinian Malbec, buttery Chardonnay, or even Champagne casks. It’s deliciously mesmerising.

A world of flavour

Bourbon casks will typically impart vanilla, coconut and citrus notes – the aromas and flavours common in bourbon.

Wine and whisky: a winning combination

Ex-wine casks are typically powerful players when it comes to maturation. This is why many distilleries choose to “finish” their whiskies in them rather than mature them fully. A finish is a bit like a mini secondary maturation. If you’ve got a 10-year-old whisky, you might choose to age it for 9 years in an ex-bourbon cask with a final 12 months in an ex-Merlot cask to limit the prominence of those berry, chocolate notes. After that, you could use that cask again with the understanding that its intensity will decline with repeat use (a bit like how a tea bag is most potent when you make that first cup, but you can still get some flavour on a second go). Then you can consider things like how warm your maturation warehouse is (the hotter the climate, the faster or more intense your maturation). Then there’s the fundamental consideration of which wine casks your distillery character will pair best with. A pronounced Islay single malt would overpower a more delicate wine, for example.

Even from this brief introduction, it’s easy to see why whisky and wine casks can work so successfully together. Want to explore the pairing through your tasting glass? Check out Edradour’s latest collection, which include a fully-matured Sauternes cask bottling and a release aged in ex-Lagrein wine casks from Northern Italy. There’s a whole world of wine-cask matured whiskies out there!

9 years in an ex-bourbon cask

12 months in an ex-Merlot cask

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